March 15th, 2020 – Port-Vila

This morning, Kevin came round to say goodbye. And the neighbours, Kathleen and Job, also wanted to say goodbye, so they all organised an impromptu lunch for me. Kathleen knew I only like aelan kakae (Island food, rather than imported), so she cooked manioc rolls wrapped in jungle cabbage leaves, served with deepwater fish cooked in coconut milk. Kevin cooked a wild pig stew and his wife Rose made a papaya fruit salad. Was a lovely sendoff, and Church was cancelled (the elders were busy with the election campaign, apparently), so Kevin said a lengthy grace, praying for me, my family and all those around the world affected by the virus. I gifted Kathleen a new coconut scraper with a mangowood board, as hers is very blunt after many years use. I gifted the province driver my cheap Chinese blender in the hope he’d use it to try to make peanut butter.

Then I got into the government truck with the driver, expecting that to be it, but everyone insisted on coming out to the airport to say goodbye, so they all piled into the back of the truck, and off we trundled. On the way, we drove past Dave and Andrea on their bikes, as they had decided to get some exercise by cycling to the airport to bid me goodbye too.

Landing in Vila was a tad scary in the small plane as there was a vicious crosswind. The girl next to me, a Turkish tourist, started clutching the seatback in front of her and screaming, which did nothing to calm the situation.

It is Vila itself which is truly scary, though. Everything is busy and the cars drive quickly. Absolutely wonderful to be in a hotel with running water which is safe to drink, hot water, air-con. Heck, there’s even a microwave and a toaster in the room. I might go for a dip in the pool in a moment.

Reverse-culture clash is definitely a real phenomenon. My next stop, virus permitting, is Sydney, leaving on early Wednesday morning. I suspect the culture clash will be even stronger there.